Rural Foodies
Home

Oxford's Cornhusker Club: Cajun in the country
by Pam Soreide and Betty Sayers

One of the laments of rural diners is the difficulty in finding good regional and ethnic fare. But while there is a preponderance of “American cuisine” along the back roads of Nebraska, there are plenty of rewarding experiences if you’re willing to seek them out.

One of these is the Cornhusker Club in Oxford. Although from the name you might expect a menu heavy in mainstream dishes, you’ll find instead a Louisiana chef with an appreciation of both his Nebraska audience and his Cajun heritage.

The evening we went to the Cornhusker Club, there were seven of us, including five adults and two eight year-old twin girls — always a good test of a restaurant’s versatility, flexibility and dedication to service.

We were given a table in the middle of the restaurant, with the pleasant buzz of diners surrounding us. Although there was no wait on a Thursday night, there were a satisfying number of patrons, indicating the Cornhusker’s draw from throughout the region. Reservations are advised on the weekend. The main dining room is a soft sage green, and the décor reflects a definite New Orleans, jazzy flavor. A quietly gurgling fountain provided white noise to mute the conversational tones.

A changing menu

The menu changes depending on what’s fresh and what Chef Marco Poche´ is in the mood for, so rather than being printed, the fare is displayed on a white board brought to the table and explained by our hostess.

This evening, the featured appetizer is an Eggplant Napoleon, and entrées include Seafood Stuffed Fish, Shrimp Creole and Jambalaya, Grilled Rib Eye on the Bayou (served over Jambalaya), Risotto Seafood Stuffed Crepes, a Bourbon Street Rib eye, and Tuna Teriyaki. New Orleans Beignets are among the dessert choices, and the sight of that name has me remembering an early breakfast at New Orleans’ Café du Monde all through our meal. There is no way I am leaving without a taste.

Co-owner Deborah Barile, dressed smartly in a black and white checked wool jacket and black slacks, asks about our wine preferences, and suggests a lovely small-vineyard California Cabernet. The twins place orders for Shirley Temples and seriously study the menu board.

We agreed that everyone had to get something different, so we ultimately decide on the Shrimp Creole, Rissotto, Grilled Rib Eye on the Bayou, Jambalya, Bourbon Street Rib Eye, and the Seafood Stuffed Fish. And, of course, we agreed to try the Eggplant Napoleon starter.

Our drinks and the appetizer arrive quickly. The Eggplant Napoleon turns out to be a tower of eggplant slices seasoned, sauced and roasted until perfectly tender. We shared it around the table and wished we had placed a double order. As a rule, I am not a big fan of eggplant, but I could have made a whole meal of that dish, and I’m sure that either of my vegetarian daughters would have been delighted with it as an entrée as well. Lettuce greens dressed with Caesar, blue cheese and other dressings followed the appetizer and were accompanied by a generous basket of homemade herbed dinner rolls.

When opportunity knocks, answer.

While we waited for our meals to arrive, we chatted with owner Gary Barile. He told us that before moving to Oxford, he and his wife lived in Mobile, Alabama where Deborah owned a catering business and Gary bought and sold real estate among other enterprises. A friend told them of a house for sale in Oxford at a “must-buy” price. They bought it sight unseen and came to Oxford with the thought renovating it, selling it and moving on, most likely back to Mobile where Deborah has deep family roots.

Then they noticed a For Sale sign on a restaurant on the north end of town, next to the golf course.

Gary said, “I was surprised to see a sign on a business property because usually restaurants are sold by restaurant brokers.” But they liked what they saw, they liked the price, and they bought the Cornhusker Club in spring of 2007.

Deborah said, “I wouldn’t take on managing the restaurant until Carlos agreed to move from Mobile to Oxford with us.” Chef Carlos Poche´ had been associated with Deborah’s catering business in Mobile, and she especially admired his culinary skills and creative approach to cuisine. When Carlos agreed to participate in the opportunity, the deal was done.

How real restaurant critics act

Now, “real” restaurant critics try nearly everything on the menu, trading portions and discussing preparations and provenance. Not this crowd, and with good reason.

Each plate was artfully arranged and garnished for maximum appeal. When our entrees arrived, you could almost see the adults protectively putting a shoulder between their plate and their neighbor’s fork. Those of us more dedicated to the spirit of this adventure might offer a small tidbit to their spouse, only to encounter a suspicious look, and a grudgingly infinitesimal return bite. There was not a lot of conversation as we concentrated on the delicious flavors blossoming in our mouths. Even our little ones were busily tucking in to their shrimp and chicken. Aaah. Where is the cook?

As we were slowing down, poking at the garnishes to see if they, too, might be delicious, Chef Carlos visited our table. He charmed us with his love of his art. He told us he used to be an investment banker and made a lot of money, but his heart wasn’t in it. Then he became a chef and found his bliss.

Sometimes a little Cajun, sometimes a lot

When we asked how he decided what to put on the menu, he said “the cuisine may be a little Cajun and sometimes a lot of Cajun.” He said he notices what diners order, but tries to offer something different too — something to stretch a Nebraska palate. Beef is purchased locally and they buy locally-grown lamb. Seafood and catfish arrives fresh-frozen from Mobile.

Plating the dishes for presentation is obviously an art at which Carlos excels, and the same menu item may be plated several different ways. “Why can’t every presentation look different?” he says. “I like to eat what looks good!”

Carlos said he likes to pick foods at the Farmers Market in the summer. “I like Nebraska foods,” he said, particularly citing the squash, zucchini, corn-fed lamb, and great beef. Carlos is gaining a reputation throughout the area and has a cooking show on NTV every Thursday 9:05 a.m.

Then it was time for dessert and coffee. Oh, yes indeed. This is no time to be coy. We’ll have the beignets. We also shared the turtle cheesecake and something with ice cream. But who cares? More beignets, please...

Who to Contact

The Cornhusker Club
809 Country Club Drive
Oxford, Nebraska 68967
Telephone: 308-824-3139

To learn more about how you can be a writer for Nebraska Rural Living, and have your essays or restaurant reviews posted on this site, visit our 'Writers Wanted' page.

back to top